Inspector Catch-it's Findings

Windows - Not just another great view!

2010-01-25T15:46:00.000-08:00

Windows are one of one of the more neglected parts of the home, aside from the exterior paint and siding. Many people take the time to clean the glass, which is great if you have single pane windows, but not enough if you have dual pane windows. Also, many people neglect the track and frame of their windows, which in the long run can largely affect the operation of the window.

Dual pane windows are sealed with a vacuum seal called a hermetic seal. Hermetic seals are used in many applications besides windows. One of the most common is food wrapping for seafood. Fish like Salmon or Tuna are often placed in a package with a hermetic seal to ensure freshness without using all those preservatives. Also airplanes have a hermetic seal that separates the cabin pressure from the outside air. The hermetic seal on a window is kept in place by a strip of rubber wedged between the frame and the glass. When this rubber becomes damaged, dried out or brittle, that's when the seal gives way and the window is no longer insulating properly.

There are several signs that indicate your hermetic seal has failed:

1) A gap between the ends of the rubber seal

2) Chalking inside the window panes

3) Refracted light inside the panes

4) ...and the most obvious, when the seal isn't seated

So these are examples of what can happen if you do not properly care for your windows. So how do you properly care for them? The best way is to have a professional window cleaning company periodically clean and care for your windows.

The following is the minimum you should expect from a professional cleaning company, and what you should do to care for them yourself:
      • Clean the glass(obvious isn't it?)
      • Vacuum out the track, and remove dust and debris(some window manufacturers design the window to come out for this process)
      • Clean the frame and track(Be sure that the cleaner you use is designed for the type of material your windows are made from: Aluminum, Vinyl, Fiberglass, etc.)
      • Grease the track(Aluminum windows only)
      • Clean the rubber seal with protectant(You can find this in an Auto Care store, be sure that the label says "for use on rubber")

Proper care of your windows can greatly extend the life of your windows by several decades.

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Stucco Siding - Cracks, Cracks, and More Cracks!

2010-01-18T07:54:00.000-08:00

It's amazing to see how the styles of clothes change throughout the years. What used to be "in" is now "out" and what used to be "out" is now "in". For example, eighties are now "in", crazy, but cool!

The same can be said for homes. Believe it or not, it actually used to be popular to put stucco on your indoor walls. You didn't want to be running through the halls as a kid and clip a close corner, or you'd be leaving a strip of flesh behind! Thankfully though, that fad came and left. But stucco hasn't left, and because of it's durability it actually became popular to use on exterior walls, and is still very much prefered today.

But how do you care for this stuff? It's always cracking, chipping, and flaking away! To better understand how to care for it, you must first understand what it consists of.

The Wire
Before you can apply your stucco, you need something for the stucco to adhere to this is made up of a few components: 1)the house-wrap, which serves as a moisture barrier; 2)Weep Screeds and Casing Beads, designed to direct water away from the wall openings and base of wall; 3)Building paper, gives the initial coat something to adhere to; 4) Metal Lath, acts as reinforcement for the initial coat; 5)While not common, control joints may also be used.

The Scratch Coat
The first coat of stucco is the scratch coat. This coat is simply a mixture of cement, sand and water, and is really the meat of the stucco layers. The wire layer is made to hold this layer up. The scratch coat is called the scratch coat because of how it is applied. This coat of stucco is applied thick enough to protrude through and hide the Wire layer, but before it sets, the surface is "scratched" with a grooved tool (it looks like a drywall knife that has been passed through a shredder) that creates horizontal slots on the scratch coat. This gives the next coat something to adhere to. After about 10-12 hours, depending on the climate, the surface must be gently sprayed with water to clean and clear the coat for the next layer, the water that stays behind actually helps to bong the two layers together.

The Brown Coat
After the scratch coat has been hydrated, the brown coat is applied directly to the scratch coat. The brown coat is also made of a sand, cement and water mixture, but more sand is added to create a weaker layer. The brown coat is actually the part of the stucco that gives it its shape. Any architectural patterns or textures are added during this coat, however not before the layer has been screeded. Screeding is done to ensure that the entire surface is level, and to maintain a proper thickness of the coat. The brown coat is hydrated just as the scratch coat, before the finish coat is added.

The Finish Coat
The finish coat is the layer that we all see, and also is made up of a mixture of sand, cement and water. Depending on the application, colorant may also be added to the stucco (and in my opinion, looks way better than painting the stucco). The finish coat is applied directly to the brown coat, this is the layer that has all the curb appeal! This layer is also the thinnest layer, at about 1/16"-1/8" This layer is also hydrated like the other layers.

Because it is made of cement, stucco does not flex with the typical movement of the home. Therefore cracks begin to develop. Properly sealed, these cracks are only cosmetic in nature and do not affect the habitability of the home. However, if left unkept, the cracks will grow, allowing moisture, pests and debris into the wall, causing dry rot, mildew, and even mold.

Proper Care
Through the years stucco will crack and get dirty. I recommend hosing down your home at least once a year, just to keep buildup from developing on the stucco.

Maintenance
As your stucco ages, you will notice hairline cracks around the corners of doors and windows, and along the large open areas. How do you deal with the cracks? Anything under 1/8" is generally normal and within tolerance. If you are unsure whether or not a crack is more than normal, or are concerned that it may be a structural issue, schedule an inspection as soon as possible.

To repair cracks or chips, if your stucco is colored and not painted, I recommend buying a stucco patch kit at your local hardware store, as using stucco patch is less noticeable along the wall in most situations. This will require a steady hand and some practice, but remember, if you mess up, it's just sand and cement, you can rinse it off and start over if you need to. Whether or not you notice the patch will depend on how well you can match the original pattern. If it doesn't look perfect, don't feel bad, it requires a lot of practice and skill.
If your stucco is painted, I recommend using caulk to repair cracks, and patching (above) to repair chips, but be sure that the caulk is not silicone based, as it will attract dirt like a magnet. The best way to apply caulk in my opinion is with your finger. Be sure to use a wet finger (keep a water source nearby), and just guide the caulk into the crack, removing any excess caulk. You can use an applicator if you don't want to get your hands messy, but I think it is worth getting your hands messy to achieve better results. The object is not to use a lot of caulk, just enough to fill the crack. Once the caulk has cured, you can paint the surface, If you did it right, you should not even notice the crack from 3 feet away.

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Roofing Materials - How long do they last? How do you know when it is time to replace?

2010-01-11T12:00:00.000-08:00

There are several roof types used in residential construction, but this article will cover the two most common: Tile Material and Asphalt/Fiberglass Shingle Material. These roofing material types are the most common because they are the most practical and most durable roofing material made in the last couple of decades.

Asphalt/Fiberglass Shingle Material

3-Tab(Standard) Asphalt Fiberglass Shingles
3-Tab Fiberglass shingles are the most common type of Asphalt Shingle used as of the writing of this article. Asphalt Fiberglass Shingles are made in two main types, "3-tab(Standard)" and "Laminated(Architectural)".

Laminated(Architectural) Asphalt Fiberglass Shingles
"Laminated" is the least common, but mainly because it is fairly new. "Laminated" is often called "Architectural" Asphalt Fiberglass because of the depth and style added by its extra layers that are added to the shingle. They are also more durable than "3-tab" and over the next few years will probably be replacing the standard "3-tab" shingles.

Asphalt shingles are great because they are cost-efficient and most brands include a 15-30 year warranty. These shingles are easy to maintain, and often can easily be patched by the homeowner. These materials will begin to show wear in as early as 8-10 years in extreme weather environments, and are vulnerable to high winds.

Maintenance of Asphalt Fiberglass Shingles
The following pictures are some signs that you can look for to know when your roof may need some maintenance:

Cracking Shingles

Missing Shingles

Torn Shingles

Missing Tabs

Waves or Bumps

Wearing away of the Asphalt Layer

These are all common signs of deterioration of an Asphalt Fiberglass Shingle roof. If you notice any of these signs of deterioration on your roof, you should repair the damaged area as soon as possible. How do you know if it is better to replace, rather than repair? If you have never patched the roof before, and you are only experiencing a few of these issues, it may be more cost effective to repair. On the other hand, if you have already repaired the roof several times and there are several more of these issues, it may be in your best interest to replace the roof. The best thing to do if you are unsure in either situation would be to consult the opinion of a roofing contractor. If you end up deciding to replace your roof, keep in mind that in most jurisdictions it is permissible to have up to three layers of roofing material on your roof before you will need to tear down and start over. This means that instead of pulling all of the old material off, you can simply apply the new material over the existing material, saving you several hundreds of dollars in demolition and removal costs.

Tile Material
Tile Material roofs are made with two main types of material: Clay and Concrete. The latter being the most durable and cost effective.

Clay Roofing Tile

Clay tiles are more glamorous, but have two drawbacks: Cost and Durability. Clay is more fragile than concrete, but will last much longer than concrete if properly cared for. In Europe, there are clay roofs that have lasted for several hundred years. The cost of a clay roof however, is significantly higher than the cost of a concrete roof. Clay roofs were more common over three decades ago, but due to the cost are widely being replaced by Concrete Tiles.

Concrete Roofing Tile

Concrete tiles appear very similar to clay tiles, but are not as brittle and can hold more weight, but they only last about 30-50 years. The use of Concrete Roofing Tiles became most widely used in the Southwestern Regions of the United States and is still most commonly used in that Region. Concrete Tiles, like Clay Tiles are made in several different Patterns and Styles.

Although both types of Tiles are very durable and last several years, you should never just walk on these material types. Due to the nature of the materials, any direct pressure in a weak location will cause the tile to crack. Many homeowners mistakenly to this when decorating their home for the holidays. Any maintenance done to the roof should be performed from a scaffolding, and preferably done by a roofing professional. Tile roof material is the best roofing material for durability and longevity of the roof, but your roof must be able to sustain the additional weight of the tile roof. If you are looking to replace your Asphalt/Fiberglass roof with a Tile roof, be sure to consult a building professional to determine whether or not the roof members can support the new roofing material.

Maintenance of Tile Roofs

The following pictures are some signs that you can look for to know when your roof may need some maintenance:

Shifting Tiles

Chipped Tiles

Cracked Tiles

These are the most common types of maintenance issues for Tile Roofing Materials. If you notice any of these deficiencies, I do not recommend that you attempt to repair them on your own, unless you are familiar with walking on these types of roofs. It is well worth the money to have a licensed roofer repair the roof, than to attempt to repair it yourself and cause more damage to the roof, only to have a licensed roofer repair the damage caused by improper weight distribution.

Proper Care of your Roof

In all cases, as long as you maintain the repairs, cut back any trees overgrowing the roof line, and keep the overall roof surface clean, you will get the optimum life expectancy of your roof type.

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To Paint or not to Paint, that is the Question!

2010-01-04T15:27:00.000-08:00

There is a story of a small church that hired a local painter to repaint the exterior of the sanctuary. The painter arrived to paint the church, and thought he could cut corners and make more of a profit by adding thinner to his paint. He was excited when he realized that he had nearly doubled his paint by thinning! The painter spent the entire day working diligently to complete the job.

At the end of the day, he stood back, admiring his excellent job, when he noticed storm clouds rolling in from the east. Then, almost immediately, thunder crackled and rain began showering the church. He watched in horror as all of his hard day's work was washed off the church. As the rain subsided, he stepped back to survey the damage: the entire church would have to be repainted!

The man fell to his knees, looked up to the heavens and shouted, "Lord, WHY? All of this hard work I did all day for nothing? What am I going to do now?"

Immediately the clouds rolled back, a light shown down from heaven, and a voice from heaven boomed in reply, "REPAINT, AND THIN NO MORE!"

I always chuckle when I hear that one! But seriously, do you paint your home? If so, how often? Do you take the proper precautions to extend the life of your paint? Do you ensure that all the exterior surfaces of your home are protected from the elements? If you answered No to even one of these questions, keep reading. I hope that by reading this article I can help you to better maintain your home and protect your investment and hard work at the same time.

Most homeowners believe that they only need to paint the home when the paint starts chipping, and flaking away. I inspect many homes where the paint on the wood siding and trim has begun to flake away, leaving exposed bare wood.

The image above shows this common condition. The problem with this is that the bare wood surface becomes exposed to water and moisture, allowing many types of fungi to grow in the wood, and not only can cause dry rot, but may be an ideal condition for a termite nest. The truth is, waiting until the surface looks like this, is well past the optimum time for painting. Not only that, but if you wait this long, you are actually causing more work than necessary.

So what signs do you need to look for to know when it is time to paint? Well, the best answer I can give is this:
1) Once when you move into the home,
2) Once every 3-5 years thereafter (although the sun facing side may need it more frequently)

If you have just purchased a home, and you do not know when the last time it was painted, go ahead and plan to paint it in the Spring, when you know you will have a few days of warm weather. Do not plan to paint your home when there is bad weather in the forecast(April Showers), or if there is too much heat(Summer) or too much cold(Fall/Winter). So what do you do first?

Step One: Prepare Surface
You will need to prepare the surface before you can apply the paint. This often requires sanding or stripping the surface of loose paint and debris. Paint will not stick to debris. If you skip this part, you will find yourself doing touch-up a couple months later. Just remember, the more time you spend here, the longer your paint will last. If you experience rain between sanding and painting, just make sure to let the surface dry completely and wipe clean again before applying the primer or paint.

Step Two: Patch all holes and cracks.
I like to use outdoor caulking(not silicone) because it is flexible, bonds well, and will move with the structure.

Step Three: Determine Prior Paint Type
Determine what kind of paint was used the last time the house was painted. If you are not sure, you can check this using denatured alcohol. In an inconspicuous area, rub some denatured alcohol against the painted surface with a rag, if the paint balls up and begins to come off, or colors the rag, it is a latex based paint, if not it is oil based. You do not want to paint latex paint over oil based, it will simply come off after a couple months, unless an oil based primer is used.

Step Four: Primer
Once the original paint type has been determined, you will need to apply a primer to the surface. I know there are paint manufacturers out there that have primer/paint blends, but this is something that you do not want to take a shortcut with. A good primer will seal the surface and continue to protect it well after the paint begins to fail.

Step Five: Choose your paint
I do not recommend just going to the store and buying a paint because of its color. These days, computer color matching machines can match just about any color you can imagine, just bring the color sample with you when you buy the paint. Select a high-quality paint. High quality does not always mean high costing either. Talk with Neighbors, and Custom Home Contractors in the area, see what they have been using and recommend. Personally, I like Behr, or if you are on a tight budget, Glidden works as well. The type of sheen(Gloss, Semi-Gloss, Satin, Flat) Depends on the type of surface. I do not recommend Flat paint on any exterior surface, as it does not repel moisture very well, and the moisture will remain on the surface, inviting Mold or Mildew. For wood surfaces, I recommend using a Semi-Gloss, you can use Gloss, but it will look shiny and most homeowners do not like this look. For Stucco, Vinyl or Masonry, use Satin because it has a low sheen, but repels moisture well.

Okay, so you have painted your home, now what? I always tell my clients, if you celebrate an annual holiday, such as Christmas, and you decorate the exterior of your home, why not check it out while you are there. If you are up on the ladder hanging lights, take a moment to inspect the painted surfaces: Are they chipping? Is there bubbling? Has it been more than three years since it was painted properly? If the answer to any of these is yes, it is time to repaint.

Some may ask, "I painted it correctly, and it's been three years and it still looks great? Do I need to do anything?" That depends on the type of paint that you used. A good exterior paint will last three to five, and even up to ten years, barring weather conditions. I would read the your paint manufacturers recommendations for reapplying, and mark your calendar to keep it up. As far as preparation, just remember clean and smooth. If the surface is clean and smooth, and you are using the correct paint, you can repaint without having to resand the surface.

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Blog Topics

2009-12-17T13:26:00.000-08:00

Okay readers, here is your chance, if there is a particular home inspection topic or home problem you would like to see written about, send an email to blogtopic@inspectorcatchit.com and I will add it to my to do list.

Winterization and De-Winterization

2009-11-30T18:52:00.000-08:00

Winter is here, and so are the vacant houses. If you are in the home buying market during the next few months you may notice a sign similar to the following:

This means that the home has been winterized. The winterization process is designed to protect the plumbing system against broken, cracked or burst pipes due to freezing water in the line.

A properly performed winterization includes, but is not limited to the following:

- Turn off and lock the main water valve
- Flush all water out of the plumbing system with compressed air
- Flush and Drain all water appliances
- Close all fixtures and valves
- Protect drain system with antifreeze
- Set central heating system to 55 degrees or higher
- Post notification of Winterization

One of the first clues that a property has not been Winterized is water in the plumbing system. If you are being told that a home was Winterized and there is still water in the plumbing system, most likely the service was not properly performed by a certified or licensed individual.

Once a property has been winterized the plumbing system must never be recharged until a proper De-Winterization has been performed. One of the most common problems I encounter when inspecting previously winterized homes is cracked or leaking valves. This happens when a person decides to attempt to De-Winterize a property themselves without a certification or license in plumbing. The most common misconception is that De-Winterizing a property means to just turn the water on. This may work 70 percent of the time. The other 30 percent of the time, valves, pipes or fixtures get cracked or damaged in the process.

So what should you expect to take place during a De-Winterization? The following is the minimum required procedure of a De-Winterization:

- Open all fixures and close any valves that do not have fixures attached
- Repressurize plumbing system with water
- Close fixtures
- Fill and run all water appliances
- Check system for leaks
- Flush all drains of antifreeze

One of the first clues that a property has not been De-Winterized is air in the plumbing system. If you are being told that a home was De-Winterized and there is still air in the plumbing system, most likely the service was not properly performed by a certified or licensed individual.

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Is it November Already?

2009-11-30T07:48:00.000-08:00

Wow, it's been busy over here! I can't believe its been over a month since I have posted here! I am so sorry everyone, I will write another article today.

Spotting a potential leak...

2009-10-06T13:52:00.000-07:00

Fall is here, winter is coming, and soon the homes that you are looking to buy will be winterized. So how will you know if there is a water leak if there is no running water? Here are some signs of some potential prior or existing leaks, all of which you should be cautious of when choosing your investment.

1) Look around the fixture or wall surface for staining.
Most porous surfaces (i.e. drywall, wood, vinyl, porcelain, steel, Fiberglass, Corian®, etc.) will show some signs of staining when water has been continually in contact with the surface for a period of time (i.e. dripping, trickling, or even standing water).

Notice the picture to the left, there is a visible brown stain on the ceiling, this is left on drywall or painted surfaces after they have been exposed to water. The only thing left in this situation is to determine if the leak came from the roof or from overhead plumbing in the attic. This generally can be determined by entering the attic space.

In this picture, you can see that they replaced the sink cabinet base, usually a tell-tale sign that an attempt has been made to repair leak damage -- or in this case, to conceal. Notice the growth on the walls, after being sent to the lab, this was determined to be Stachybotrys Mold (Black Mold). The leak in this particular place had been repaired, but they failed to properly remediate the mold. In time, this mold will eat away at the wall until it is gone, and who knows how many spores will be released in the air to grow elsewhere during that time period.

Ignore, for a moment, the rust ring around the drain itself; that alone cannot determine a leak, as older tubs commonly have a rust ring around the drain. Instead, look just to the left of the drain in the picture. If you look closely, you will see a nice clean area with a fringe of brownish orange, this is staining from a constant drip. Even if the water is off, this staining will remain, and is often hard to remove with standard cleaning agents.

2) Look for corrosion on the pipes.
Whether it is a very slow leak, or a fast leak, copper pipes or galvanized, the result is always corrosion. Corrosion is the first sign of a water leak, followed by a burst or cracked pipe. Pictured below are the two common types of pipe, copper and galvanized, and what corrosion looks like on each.

This is where copper meets galvanized. In this picture, a copper flex pipe has been connected to a galvanized nipple. As you can see in the image, there is a considerable amount of powdered rust on the joint. This is due to a very slow leak, and unfortunately, with the galvanized pipe, is probably much worse that what we can see on the outside. Replace these fittings immediately.

This ice-maker supply line is a copper stub that has a tapping valve attached to it, they most likely forgot to install the rubber washer for the valve, causing this slow leak. Notice the light blue streak in the corrosion, this is a common sign of exposure to water and oxygen on copper. If you see this type of corrosion on your copper pipes, and it cannot be attributed to any outside elements, then you probably have a slow leak.

3.) Evidence of repair.
Not all repair jobs are created equal. Many are less than adequate and are an intent to cover-up, rather than a repair or restore. Be aware of texture and paint differences on walls. Many times this is indicative of a cover-up. Licensed professionals are capable of repairing or restoring a wall to near pristine condition, with the ability and skill to match texture and paint. Amateurs, on the other hand, do not have the skill required to match the texture, and often leave this evidence behind, even if they were able to find a paint match.

In this picture, notice the ripples underneath the water supply pipe. Also, the inadequate feathering of the texture to the right of that. A skilled and licensed professional would have had the ability to patch the area neatly and with little to no evidence of repair. This unskilled texturing job right around a water supply pipe is indicative of a potential prior leak, and should be investigated further.

Of course, if you're lucky, the alleged offender may leave the spray can of Kilz® Satinblocker right near the area in question, and remove all doubt!

There you have it, three common steps that can be taken to spot a potential leak. If you see any of these signs around your home, or the home that you are looking to buy, you just might want to call a licensed contractor to investigate the situation further. If there are any signs of possible mold growth, get the area examined by a mold professional immediately.

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What ever happened to...

2009-09-28T16:35:00.000-07:00

I often come across homes with some older discontinued features, such as Galvanized Steel Pipes in the water system, Lead Pipes in the drainage system, Knob and Tube Wiring, and the like. This is always when inspecting homes built in the 1970's or older. Well, the other day, I actually came across something that I have never seen before, and I actually had to do a little research to find out exactly what it was used for. I know, you are thinking, "tell me already, what is it?" I found an unusual looking electrical outlet in the kitchen.

It is actually not a for a four-pronged plug. These outlets were made in the fifties and slowly discontinued, mainly due to the advent of grounded plugs, and the need to have a balanced circuit. These outlets were initially designed for the bathroom, (why this one is in the kitchen, who knows!) as they could easily accommodate your electric razor, curling iron, electric toothbrush, and hair dryer all at the same time! What ever happened to the good 'ol days? "Boy the way Glen Miller played. Songs that made the hit parade...Those were the days" I know, I just dated myself. But that was my Dad's favorite show and we watched it all of the time! (All in the Family, for those that are trying to figure it out)

So, what do you do if you come across one of these outlets? Have a licensed electrician replace it for you, and in fact, you probably aren't on a grounded system, so you might as well have him quote you for an upgrade while he's there. Save the outlet as a souvenir though, just to tell the kids!

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Let's see how this goes...

2009-09-22T14:09:00.000-07:00

Okay, I have not been one to blog, let alone write. But with the advent of Facebook, Twitter™, and the like, I figured, why not? We'll just see how it goes. Maybe if I write my findings here, I might be able to help somebody find problems in their own home. Hey, it could happen! Then again, maybe I will just waste more time at the computer. But hey, this is better than sitting on the couch watching TV, at least this is constructive and helpful. I mean, if I put all of the problems I find inspecting homes on a day to day basis, maybe people won't need home inspectors anymore (not likely). I was thinking of keeping it entertaining too, like telling stories of funny things that have happened to me during an inspection, or funny things that past clients have said, maybe not the latter, I might hurt some feelings unbeknownst to me. At any rate this is my first post, so there you go.

Like I said, we'll see.